Mallorca!

We always believed the Spanish didn’t get up in the mornings because they went to bed so late.

Foolish.  The reason they don’t get up is that there isn’t any wind till nearly lunch time!

Entry from Log for 9^th August:

“0700:  Weigh & proceed UP  [Under Power].  NW1.  Dry, clear.

“1130:  Full sail” – for the remainder of the 50 mile crossing to Isla Dragonera off the Western end of Mallorca.  A slightly tricky anchorage with weed and rocks – and a “2m. rock in the middle of the anchorage” – a less than helpful entry in the Pilot, without any co-ordinates.  Certainly not on our electronic chart!  So once the skipper had chosen his spot, I hopped over the side in my fins & snorkel, had a look at the anchor and located the rock – waving to Mike on tip-fin to prove it was 2m under water.  I noticed a lot of small, harmless looking jelly fish, enjoyed a leisurely swim and came back on board.

Shortly afterwards, we were joined by Shenandoah.  What a picture of loveliness,  She was built in 1902   and has been extensively re-fitted.  She’s now on the market – hope she finds an owner who wants to sail her.

Not happy with the holding the next day, Mike dove over the side and was back again about half a minute later, shouting for vinegar.  He had a weal on his neck which looked as if he had been cut down from a lynching  - my Italian Waters Pilot [but not the Balearics one] revealed the culprit

…………..  Despite the vinegar compress it was extremely painful for 24 hours & didn’t fully go away for about a week.  They seem to go about in drifts, so watch out!  I did volunteer to go in later in a long-sleeved polo neck & pyjama bottoms to check our new position, but happily this offer was declined!

We stayed a second night –anchored out of sight of buildings – and then headed up to Palma via Cala Blanca [which is a bit like saying Black Rock on the West Coast] and Les Isletas which must be lovely off- season.

Thanks to word from Vickie of Bella Luna, we had a really good deal in the heart of Palma Harbour.  Where we were in the realms of the good, the bad and the ugly

– and felt pretty small!..........  La Llonja Marina is actually a charter base, tucked into the NE corner of the harbour, nearer to the city than any of the others.  Full at weekends, they sensibly offer their berths on weekdays for about half the price of anywhere else.  We enjoyed our stay – it’s a lovely city.    We failed [surprise] to find a place where we had had an excellent lunch about six years ago, but did locate a great little restaurant called Les Oliviers with a quirky, eclectic menu which included yellow gazpacho [“Delicious” – Michael Stewart] Cambodian Noodles and Organic Burger!   Can’t remember the address, but it was in the shadow of a big church…..

Our friends David & Jane arrived in one piece – well, two – kindly bringing with them the usual assortment of spares and requests from UK.  Spending a night on the way down, we sailed over to Cabrera [Goat Island – Rabbit Island is also part of the archipelago], a nature reserve about 12 miles South of  Mallorca. 

You have to book one of the limited buoys to stay there, but it was well worth it – a stunning natural harbour, once the haunt of pirates [which got the skipper’s imagination fired up] and now watched over by a military base on the island.  In an enterprising move, the Army Cantina is open to the public for drinks & snacks.  Sadly, you’re only allowed a one night stay in August – it was lovely to be away from resorts & jet-skis.

The staircase at the castle - just wide enough if you aren't horizontally challenged....

Our friends also kindly brought with them some excellent sailing weather – we used the engine far less than recently.  Mike spent some time attempting to fine tune the self-steering gear – still not quite right, but we’re getting there.  This will be great when we are sailing short-handed, as the Autopilot consumes a lot of power so can only be used when motoring,

After heading back to the bigger island, we found ourselves in Porto Cristo, a Cala with deep cliffs on either side – again, a wonderful natural haven.  After D & J had gone for a recce, they suggested we visit the Cuevas del Drach – an enormous series of caves with an underground lake at their heart.  Despite being herded in there with holiday crowds, we were all bowled over by them – the size and variety of stalactites & stalagmites were extraordinary – I certainly had to remind myself more than once that we weren’t in some CGI generated film set.  They have made an auditorium by the lake and we were treated to a mini classical concert by a trio in a rowing boat, with two extra softly lit vessels for effect, moving back & forth amongst the arches and shadows. Not easy to photograph, but if you find yourself in Mallorca, do go.  Hold your nerve as you queue up for your tickets & go past the gift shop and the coaches – to all four of us it was definitely worth it. [and choose a quieter month if you can!].

Finally, with David & Jane on hand, we flew the cruising chute  [smaller than a spinnaker, but similar material] for the first time on our way past Baia Alcudia to Baia Pollensa.  Most gratifying [and pretty] – 6 – 7 knots in very light airs. 

Let’s just say that recovering it needs some work, especially if you are short handed. 

Thanks are due to Jane for lying face down [who is no doubt grateful we were all too busy to capture her on the camera...] on the bit we managed to get in first to stop it flying off again while I was furiously stuffing some more into the sack!  David had spent more than his fair share of time at the helm during the week, so it was only just that he was there, having a relatively quiet time, rather than up on the foredeck, battling with the rest of us!  I have already done some research into a snuffer.

We do need to find a willing photographer on another yacht to take pictures of Stravaigin under sail.

We rented bikes for D&J’s last day, and enjoyed a pedal round to Pollensa via Alcudia before repairing to El Cocodrillo in Bonaire for a delicious final supper.