Guadiana to Cadiz

Noises off in the Guadiana River...

It was a lovely night,  we were anchored a decent distance from any other vessels, so The Red Hot Chilli Pipers [that's not a typo  - they are a Scottish band..]  were on at high volume. From my position drying up  after a shower I didn't hear Mike bellow  "MONICA!!! GET UP HERE IMMEDIATELY!"   Once he'd penetrated the wall of sound I came up to see our anchor pellet whizzing by and also Plane Song on one side and a German boat on the other, both with lights  and anxious people on deck, Bruce thoughtfully shining a torch at another boat for which we were heading.

There was plenty to hit - boats, banks, buoys - and somehow Stravaigin missed them all.

We came up with a theory which Bruce and the German considered likely - because one swings around so much on the river, it is possible that we caught our own anchor pellet [a small buoy on a light line so you can identify the anchor's position], swung round and tripped ourselves.  When  Mike started the engine, the Spurs cutters must have sliced through the line - it was a clean cut.

We were VERY lucky!

Lucky we didn't hit Plane Song, as we had agreed to take our Cobb barbecue ashore for a demonstration alongside theirs.  I'd been a bit sceptical about this pricey bit of kit, but we are delighted - it heats up really fast, and yet is completely safe to move around with bare hands when lit and no ash can blow anywhere.  There's a well round the outside of the charcoal holder in which you can put veg. etc, and it grills with the lid on.  The outside is a sort of mesh which remains cool while letting the draught through.

Yes, that IS Mike with a cooking implement in his hands.....

And Bruce,
 Cobb chef extraordinaire.

Right, any more information and I will be accused of being a spotter!

The swallows taking more spiders to their babies.

We had a great walk on the Spanish side of the river - sadly the castle is being restored, so there's little to see once you get there except an excellent view of the river. Stravaigin's just below a round white tower

Washing off the bikes, naturally!

Sadly, the wind was still in the South [completely un-forecast, it blew up-river every afternoon we were there] on our trip back down the river, so we had to motor rather more 

.

Fortunately, the chart plotter had the river a bit wrong, we hadn't gone aground.  Still, this was a disconcerting  to see on the screen!

We spent another night in Ayamonte, taking advantage of the ferry to nip back to Portugal for fresh milk, 81% chocolate and Mueseli from Lidl.  Simon Sands arrived, looking extremely fit after his walk down the Portuguese Atlantic Coast, and we headed for Cadiz the next afternoon.  

The reason for the dog leg was the greatest number of fishing buoys we have seen since we left UK.  However, it was a chance to beat to windward for an hour or so and discover, to our satisfaction, that the re-designed rudder has made a significant difference.  We then headed South East and had a cracking sail - 8 knots sometimes - till sunset.  

The night was a mixture of sailing and motoring as the wind dropped as it usually does, so we approached Cadiz at first light, sailing through the Spanish fleet [albeit fishing boats] and keeping a careful eye on her warships over at Rota.  I'd seen it on the chart, but the reality of the Bay of Cadiz is HUGE!  When we reached our waypoint buoy at the entrance to the channel, we still had 12 miles or so  to go till our anchorage

which was in the lee of a partly constructed bridge - sounds unappealing, but actually it was very comfortable and interesting - the cranes and the half finished supports [I know that isn't the right word] are rather beautiful]  

We had a brilliant time in Cadiz - as Freddie Mercury sang, "I love to ride my bicycle!" - all over the city.  Far too many photos - will edit before next edition.

From Cadiz

Very briefly, as we won't have internet from tomorrow for a few days ~ we had an eventful time up the Guadiana, dragging spectacularly one night, having a lesson on our Cobb barbecue from Bruce & Becky, trying to find somewhere to anchor on the spring tides above the bridge .

The first chance to try out Stravaigin's new rudder on a beat, heading due South to get away from all the fishing buoys outside the Guadiana.  We are really pleased with the difference it has made.  We've been in the Bay of Cadiz for a few days - lovely city.

Will try and add some photos and detail tomorrow before we head back out to anchor to wait for some wind to take us to the Straits of Gibraltar, hopefully on Monday.

Up to date on 5th June

Who noticed I had my son's birthday wrong??  It's now been amended.... [by me, I mean, not him]

Presentation of a shell by grandson Arthur to Mike, or "Tidy" as that generation calls himLumps in the throat as we waved goodbye to the family at Culatra, but on the 28th, Rory joined us for the day sail to Ayamonte.  Sadly there was little wind but it was great to have him on board.  We landed him on the Portuguese side of the river to catch a train back to his family - an official came and questioned him, but I think the sprint up the pontoons was just for comic effect!

We then went into Ayamonte marina on the Spanish side.  

(Sailors should note that the depths are considerably less than advertised and we were certainly sitting on the bottom at low water.  When we left we certainly waited until at least half tide.  BELA LUNA, who draws 2.1 meters also touched the bottom.  The staff were quite honest about this, saying that they were waiting for a dredger.  Once again we found them friendly and helpful.  The showers are a little eccentric but there's a good laundry which isn't mentioned in the Imray pilot)

Meyrick and Jane took us out for a delicious dinner before departing on the 29th

- by ferry back over the river and then by train to a fancy hotel near Albuferia where, rumour has it, Jane spent the first day in the shower!!  [Having coped in the quirky showers ashore and the good but very quick ones on board....]  It was lovely seeing them both.

The town has nearly everything you might wish, shady squares with tiled seats, hardware stores, a great chandlery run by a Dutch couple, a sensational produce market and two reasonable supermarkets.

 

 

Having stocked up well, we departed for our destination up the River, under the suspension bridge - Stravaigin clears 19.5 m from the water line and the bridge has 20m at high water.  Somewhat important to get the tides right.....

We could practically count how many babies the swallows had!

Phew!

To quote from an email entitled "Sailing for Cissies" to my three non-sailing brothers in law:

Five miles up the Guadiana yesterday doing 4 knots over the ground in complete calm, just a yankee up at the front. No noise except birdsong .  Have seen black winged stilts,egrets and red rumped swallows (catching tiny spiders whose webs are all over our rigging!).

Today we sailed for two hours x then had to motor for an hour.  Then the tide turned so we anchored about 20m from the Spanish shore x had lunch.  Mike is now snoozing in his hammock and I have the side awning up in the cockpit.  Tomorrow we will catch the flood again and make the 3 miles to Alcoutim.

Extraordinary being in a yacht which draws 2.4m on a river about as wide as the Tay at Perth.

Lots of people fishing from the bank, but this is NOT wader territory"

We arrived at the same time as the annual hatch of thousands and thousands of spiders.  For two days our rigging was covered in webs - see below - and whenever you went on deck they were wrapped round your face.  The spiders got everywhere and the skipper, who normally supports the arachnid [not the biggest ones, obviously] spent much time wiping and sweeping them off the boat!  It only lasted a couple of days, but all the swallows, in multi storey nests on the buildings, had an absolute bonanza to feed their young.  Presumably they know this and breed accordingly.

Having worked out the tides carefully for our voyage down the river, we leave tomorrow evening, drift on the ebb [should be a good 3 knots] even if we can't sail, until hungry or the tide turns - whichever happens first.  Anchor, have supper, and continue on Friday.  We're picking up Simon Sands, who's sailing with us to Gib, on Saturday.  Getting there in time for that wonderful market!

Ayamonte, River Guadiana - the Portuguese - Spanish Border. June 4th.

I know, it's now June - winter is long over!  Monica spent more time than anticipated in UK - not only because of the fall off her bike [which, an MRI revealed in March, ruptured a ligament in her knee.  Excellent physio from Manuel at the kick boxing gym has meant that she is managing pretty well on board, but it looks like an op. in the autumn] but due to continuing worries over Clara [eldest grand-daughter] whose medical problems are a serious worry to the family and a puzzle to the medical profession.

Mike visited son Jamie in Hong Kong - a good break from boat work.

Several of our new friends - Bruce & Becky of PLANE SONG, Kathrin & Kalle of PIGAFETTA, Joao & Natali of BABILE and Heiko [sorry, I can't remember the name of his boat] were exceptionally kind when I had my accident, from picking me up off the pavement, taking me to the hospital to feeding Mike while I was away and visiting me when I was stuck in the flat. THANK YOU ALL!!

We finally left the Tagus Yacht Center on May 7th, having completed MOST of our winter tasks.

Mike easing the antennas under the hoist's frame!

Rafael Veneziano in action

Rafael and "Papa" - never without his hard hat!

Joao Liberato's re-designed rudder - approved by Whitlock - was finished - a combination of work by the boys in the yard and Mike.  The result is a great improvement, though it has yet to be tested in heavy weather, the steering is much lighter and more responsive - she nearly sails herself.

With Peter Powell having been on board since the 28th, patiently waiting for Stravaigin to get wet, but filling his time most skillfully on board as usual, we were delighted to be away.  We went to Alcantara in Lisbon for the night and then spent a couple of nights in Cascais.

Not much wind, but we found that our new configuration of high cut yankee and staysail worked well, and is a lot easier to handle for the mate who always seems to be on the end of the winch handle!  Suspect the Genoa will spend the majority of its time skulking under the forecabin bunk!

Peter, finally at sea, with some of his splendid stainless work on the A frame.

The approach to Sines, half way to Cape St. Vincent, isn't promising, passing huge oil terminals and general industry.  But once inside the inner harbour, one couldn't even see this, and it is an attractive little town.  We bade farewell to Peter and then spent a few days at anchor and a couple in the marina, awaiting Meyrick & Jane Beebee.  We found all the marina staff exceptionally friendly and helpful, the showers were good and the price extremely reasonable.  

Travel note:  should you ever need to get to Faro from Sines, take the public bus to Portimao.  Should your plane connection not link with onward buses or trains, I used A2B Airport transfers, asking to collect Peter from a hotel I chose at random.  It worked beautifully and was considerably cheaper than a taxi!!

The Beebees made their way safely up from Faro in a hire car which we made extremely good use of before they handed it back - thank you, M&J!  We went all over town for a tiny electrical bit and to two supermarkets for all the heavy stuff and the all-important mueseli and 81% chocolate from Lidl - both the best we have found in Portugal!   There was also an excellent produce market which Jane and I thoroughly enjoyed.  The peaches and melons are coming into season.......

 [By the way, if you are sailing and missing proper marmalade, go straight to your nearest Pingo Doce - in most Portuguese towns - and buy their own brand.  We found everyone else's is either bland or too sweet.  While you're there, pick up some of their own Rose at a ridiculous 1.99 euros a bottle.  Before crossing into Spain, buy as much fresh milk as you can freeze - you won't find it in Andalucia]

A decent North-Westerly gave us a good overnight sail down to Cape St. Vincent - sadly accompanied by a really unpleasant swell on the starboard quarter - well, we were in the Atlantic, after all - but the latter diminished as soon as we rounded the Cape and, as if in celebration, a large pod of bottle nosed dolphins joined us for half an hour or so.  A good breakfast as the sun came up, and we were in a different climate altogether.

We sailed into Portimao Harbour to cheerful greetings from Kathrin on PIGAFETTA [ Who could not love a woman whose first sentence was "I'm your new neighbour - I hope you don't think I drink this stuff   (indicating a can of Coke) ~ I'm putting it in my ears!"  Apparently this is a diver's tip for relieving ear   pressure before flying!]    And from Bruce and Becky who had sailed PLANE SONG down from Lisbon a week or so earlier.and took this picture of us under Yankee alone entering the harbour.

Once Meyrick had had a well earned rest, we inflated and launched our new baby - a 1.8m Roundtail dinghy which is going to be perfect for short trips ashore.  She is perfect for two - a little crowded for three!  Launch and recovery is so quick and easy,  carrying her up the beach is so easy - The Beeb is a delight.  

We went to Ferragudo - a pretty old village opposite Portimao for an excellent lunch on the quay.  

Next stop was Vilamoura marina.  Well, it was a useful distance.  Massive marina, you had to walk down a bar and restaurant lined main street to get to the showers....

so we were extremely happy to get to our anchorage between the tiny island of Culatra and Olhao, just East of Faro.  Cleverly, we arrived on a Friday, because the Saturday market in Olhao is just fabulous.  In addition to the daily market in the big halls, on Saturdays, there are dozens of stalls outside as well - more home-grown looking produce.  Some just with a couple of things - potatoes, onions & parsley, maybe - and such hustle and bustle as everyone did their weekly shop.  MJS was nearly pushed over by a woman of her own age [I guess] who was not happy with her tomato selection.   Meyrick stayed with Jane & me for a while, but obviously found our indecision a little trying - there was just too much to choose from!

We got the ferry back to Culatra & Mike collected us in two loads from there.  

26th May was [son]  Rory's birthday and happily the family [with their old friends the Pinders] were staying near Faro and they took a water taxi to Culatra for the day.  Grandson Arthur had no idea he was seeing us and was endearingly thrilled!    A perfect hour on the Atlantic side of the island was followed by a good lunch.  When Kate Pinder apologised for the mess the children had made , the waitress just smiled and said "It's the beach!"  Fortunately there was a nearby hose to remove Fergus's covering of ice cream!

The skipper has just called me on the HH VHF and sounds a bit hungry, but now I have got going again, hopefully it won't be so long.