Tuesday 4 June 2013

Ayamonte, River Guadiana - the Portuguese - Spanish Border. June 4th.

I know, it's now June - winter is long over!  Monica spent more time than anticipated in UK - not only because of the fall off her bike [which, an MRI revealed in March, ruptured a ligament in her knee.  Excellent physio from Manuel at the kick boxing gym has meant that she is managing pretty well on board, but it looks like an op. in the autumn] but due to continuing worries over Clara [eldest grand-daughter] whose medical problems are a serious worry to the family and a puzzle to the medical profession.

Mike visited son Jamie in Hong Kong - a good break from boat work.

Several of our new friends - Bruce & Becky of PLANE SONG, Kathrin & Kalle of PIGAFETTA, Joao & Natali of BABILE and Heiko [sorry, I can't remember the name of his boat] were exceptionally kind when I had my accident, from picking me up off the pavement, taking me to the hospital to feeding Mike while I was away and visiting me when I was stuck in the flat. THANK YOU ALL!!

We finally left the Tagus Yacht Center on May 7th, having completed MOST of our winter tasks.

Mike easing the antennas under the hoist's frame!

Rafael Veneziano in action

Rafael and "Papa" - never without his hard hat!


Joao Liberato's re-designed rudder - approved by Whitlock - was finished - a combination of work by the boys in the yard and Mike.  The result is a great improvement, though it has yet to be tested in heavy weather, the steering is much lighter and more responsive - she nearly sails herself.



With Peter Powell having been on board since the 28th, patiently waiting for Stravaigin to get wet, but filling his time most skillfully on board as usual, we were delighted to be away.  We went to Alcantara in Lisbon for the night and then spent a couple of nights in Cascais.

Not much wind, but we found that our new configuration of high cut yankee and staysail worked well, and is a lot easier to handle for the mate who always seems to be on the end of the winch handle!  Suspect the Genoa will spend the majority of its time skulking under the forecabin bunk!

Peter, finally at sea, with some of his splendid stainless work on the A frame.

The approach to Sines, half way to Cape St. Vincent, isn't promising, passing huge oil terminals and general industry.  But once inside the inner harbour, one couldn't even see this, and it is an attractive little town.  We bade farewell to Peter and then spent a few days at anchor and a couple in the marina, awaiting Meyrick & Jane Beebee.  We found all the marina staff exceptionally friendly and helpful, the showers were good and the price extremely reasonable.  
Travel note:  should you ever need to get to Faro from Sines, take the public bus to Portimao.  Should your plane connection not link with onward buses or trains, I used A2B Airport transfers, asking to collect Peter from a hotel I chose at random.  It worked beautifully and was considerably cheaper than a taxi!!



The Beebees made their way safely up from Faro in a hire car which we made extremely good use of before they handed it back - thank you, M&J!  We went all over town for a tiny electrical bit and to two supermarkets for all the heavy stuff and the all-important mueseli and 81% chocolate from Lidl - both the best we have found in Portugal!   There was also an excellent produce market which Jane and I thoroughly enjoyed.  The peaches and melons are coming into season.......

 [By the way, if you are sailing and missing proper marmalade, go straight to your nearest Pingo Doce - in most Portuguese towns - and buy their own brand.  We found everyone else's is either bland or too sweet.  While you're there, pick up some of their own Rose at a ridiculous 1.99 euros a bottle.  Before crossing into Spain, buy as much fresh milk as you can freeze - you won't find it in Andalucia]

A decent North-Westerly gave us a good overnight sail down to Cape St. Vincent - sadly accompanied by a really unpleasant swell on the starboard quarter - well, we were in the Atlantic, after all - but the latter diminished as soon as we rounded the Cape and, as if in celebration, a large pod of bottle nosed dolphins joined us for half an hour or so.  A good breakfast as the sun came up, and we were in a different climate altogether.

We sailed into Portimao Harbour to cheerful greetings from Kathrin on PIGAFETTA [ Who could not love a woman whose first sentence was "I'm your new neighbour - I hope you don't think I drink this stuff   (indicating a can of Coke) ~ I'm putting it in my ears!"  Apparently this is a diver's tip for relieving ear   pressure before flying!]    And from Bruce and Becky who had sailed PLANE SONG down from Lisbon a week or so earlier.and took this picture of us under Yankee alone entering the harbour.


Once Meyrick had had a well earned rest, we inflated and launched our new baby - a 1.8m Roundtail dinghy which is going to be perfect for short trips ashore.  She is perfect for two - a little crowded for three!  Launch and recovery is so quick and easy,  carrying her up the beach is so easy - The Beeb is a delight.  


We went to Ferragudo - a pretty old village opposite Portimao for an excellent lunch on the quay.  


Next stop was Vilamoura marina.  Well, it was a useful distance.  Massive marina, you had to walk down a bar and restaurant lined main street to get to the showers....

so we were extremely happy to get to our anchorage between the tiny island of Culatra and Olhao, just East of Faro.  Cleverly, we arrived on a Friday, because the Saturday market in Olhao is just fabulous.  In addition to the daily market in the big halls, on Saturdays, there are dozens of stalls outside as well - more home-grown looking produce.  Some just with a couple of things - potatoes, onions & parsley, maybe - and such hustle and bustle as everyone did their weekly shop.  MJS was nearly pushed over by a woman of her own age [I guess] who was not happy with her tomato selection.   Meyrick stayed with Jane & me for a while, but obviously found our indecision a little trying - there was just too much to choose from!

We got the ferry back to Culatra & Mike collected us in two loads from there.  

26th May was [son]  Rory's birthday and happily the family [with their old friends the Pinders] were staying near Faro and they took a water taxi to Culatra for the day.  Grandson Arthur had no idea he was seeing us and was endearingly thrilled!    A perfect hour on the Atlantic side of the island was followed by a good lunch.  When Kate Pinder apologised for the mess the children had made , the waitress just smiled and said "It's the beach!"  Fortunately there was a nearby hose to remove Fergus's covering of ice cream!


The skipper has just called me on the HH VHF and sounds a bit hungry, but now I have got going again, hopefully it won't be so long.



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