Wednesday 31 July 2013

From Torrevieja

Very few photos taken along the Costa del Sol – no point in depressing everyone!! 

So instead, here are a few of what we have been about when not sailing:

Mike installing the SSB antenna – swinging off the insulated backstay in La Linea Harbour  - and part of a wedding procession of dozens of yachts, dressed overall.  All guests in trunks or bikins except bride and groom, traditionally attired in long white dress & suit respectively!  

A neat little seat  made for the Beeb by the skipper – much more comfortable, though it has a slight tendency to tip – to be used with care after a good meal ashore!

The wind vane steering – installation now practically finished.    We requested a manual from the new owner of Fleming Self Steering, as ours, handed out by the previous man, was more in the way of a draft with a few sketches.  Delighted to report that Phil George, an Australian, began his manual with a tribute to Blondie Hasler.


The Breeze Bandit – what a great and simple bit of kit.  Unlike traditional wind scoops, this has four separate channels for the breeze, so even it you aren’t head into wind – which you have to be for other scoops to work – it picks up whatever is coming.  It's an American product which a kind friend ordered and sent over as they are a ridiculous price in Europe.   Now  loved and appreciated [the Breeze Bandit – though Bryan is as well] as are our mosquito screens.  Although well out in La Linea, I resembled a chicken pox patient for a few days!


Highly recommended, and now I’ve seen how it’s done, could be reproduced for other hatches.

Our renewables are just about keeping pace with the demands of fridge and freezer – plus top ups from the days – too many recently – of motoring.

Other jobs done more frequently in the heat – inlet strainers.  Each time they are checked a new form of marine life seems to have worked its way in – yesterday, it was a sort of transparent gel – rather like sea squirt spat – nearly coating all the surfaces, plus greeny-yellow scum.  Absolutely vital to keep these clean, for the running of the engine, fridge, freezer and generator.

Our deck mounted shower is really coming into its own now that we’re swimming most days [complete with one of those flannels that fit over your hand to clean the water line]  
The side screen by the cockpit awning – which we move as the day progresses– is an absolute boon – just a simple shaped sheet with lanyards, but it makes a huge difference.

As we head towards the top of the high season, we will be going into marinas even less frequently [quoted €78 for one night which, the manager proudly added, includes electricity and water…..  well, it won’t because we won’t be going in there!] so the big Avon will be out more for shopping trips ashore, etc..   I’ve made slings to lift it out of the water at night – for security and to keep the weed down.  We’ll tow it on day hops in the Balearics.


A long day without much sailing took us from Herradura to Almerimar marina, past huge areas of white plastic where, says our pilot, “most of Northern Europe’s winter vegetables are grown”.  The plastic is mentioned as a genuine marine hazard, if a sheet breaks free.


Almerimar proved much more attractive than anticipated for a purpose- built marina village.  Efficient, welcoming and very decent facilities.   We were directed to a mooring which turned out to be right besides JA NA – a German boat who had been at Tagus Yacht Center.  They had just returned from the Balearics and were full of hints, tips and enthusiasm.

Stravaigin and all who sail in her – and their towels & sheets – were thoroughly washed. 

We stayed a couple of nights and had intended just to go round to anchor in the next bay, as we didn’t leave till about 1600, but  a good breeze appeared, so we decided to keep going.  We rounded the Cabo de Gata at 2330 and had a steady [well, OK, quite slow on occasion…] sail through the night until the wind finally died around 0730 – so three or so hours of motoring before it obligingly got up again, and had a brisker sail to Cabo Tinoso, 8 miles West of  Cartagena.  Quite a quartering sea had built up from the SE  by then, requiring attentive helming .  We turned into Baia Saltirona, which got us out of the worst of it.   

Two other yachts at anchor, one of whom shone a torch at us – were we about to tangle in a fishing net?  No, it was PLANE SONG, Bruce & Becky flashing us a welcome!   We agreed that Saltirona was like Ardnamurchan without the heather – dramatic skyline all round, with a row of forts [OK, not quite like Argyll] leading to the lighthouse.  That’s one photo I should have taken

Apparently Drake raided Cartagena and took a whole bunch of their cannons back to the West Indies with him……….. 


It was rather a rolly anchorage, but we stayed a couple of nights, setting off on the 29th to see how far we would get.  Happily the NE winds didn’t materialise and we had good fun,  round the Cabo de Palos, past the Mar Menor – a 12 x 6 mile inland sea which you can go into , but there were solid high-rises the whole way along the Eastern edge of it, and didn't appeal.  Anchored in Torrevieja around 2130. 


  Whilst bowling along at 6 knots rounding Cabo de Palos,  the skipper decided to have a look at the RNSA burgee – and was on the phone to the club 5 minutes later.  A new one has already arrived with the Mayos who are joining us in the Balearics – just as well, feel we could be struck off for this one!

That's not the cabin sole which is making it look grey....................


 We spent a blissful night in the inner harbour, sleeping like logs with no swell, but were chased out in the morning – they’ve decided to ban anchoring there – no seamanship reasons we can see – more a commercial decision with two marinas competing for custom??

Luckily, in a NE wind, there’s still good shelter outside the harbour, although not without swell.

We are giving ourselves one night in the Marina das Salinas here (the manager rejoices in the name of  Rodney Chinchilla).  Once again, friendly, polite, welcoming staff.  A pretty narrow berth, but we are getting more practised at bows to mooring and the marinieros have so far been ashore to help with lines etc.

Dad would turn in his grave to learn I am typing with our little washing machine going, but it’s great!  Very efficient, and saves an awful lot of lugging large bags of wet sheets & towels back from launderettes, and as most marinas include water & power, cheaper anyway. And drying things is NOT an issue!




Meantime, Mike is happily on deck busily deploying the hose and scrubbing brush.  We’ve discovered there’s a Lidl here, so can top up on chocolate & mueseli, and there’s a produce market and supermarket close at hand.  So the bike has been landed!  The produce markets are always good, but I do think wistfully of you Tesco-on-line customers as I wobble back with panniers full of the heavy stuff.  I spotted an enviable little bike trailer being ridden happily along a pontoon the other day – fear space forbids.   However,  it does give one a feeling of having hunted and gathered.

We’ve got 60 – 80 miles more on this coast, depending on where we decide to cross, either to Ibiza or Formentera.   Not much variety in the wind for a week – NE in the morning, SE in the afternoon, seldom more than force 4.   There seem to be better anchoring opportunities than there have been along this stretch, but we are looking forward to the heavily indented coastlines of the Balearics.



Friday 26 July 2013

From Almerimar - near Almeria

There is some Westerly wind forecast for this weekend - hooray!  Too much motoring.....

Very glad to be away from Gib, though it was historically interesting.  We encountered our first surly Spaniards there - amongst the 9000 who work on the Rock.  It's interesting that it's so resented in Spain
 
It's fun crossing over to La Linea by bike - much quicker than by car, but you have to go into the line at the border with all the motor bikes, and it's a bit un-nerving having Harley Davidsons revving up behind you as you negotiate the cones!

 You go straight over the runway [when the lights are green....]. 
That's the Rock from La Linea.

- after all, both Ceuta and Gib have been hung on to for strategic and commerical reasons with little geographical justification so, pot... kettle?

Before we left, we went out for supper, on the recommendation of a neighbouring boat, to The Owners' Club - on the grounds of good food at sensible prices.  Our waiter had been to the Basil Fawlty charm school, slamming our plates down, trying to make us take a table we didn't want, speaking very quickly in strongly accented Spanish when he obviously understood us a little - it was so bad it was funny, which was a relief to two very nice young Spaniards on the next table, who apologised profusely for him and translated for us.  And the food was good!

Goodbye!
 
We're now in Almerimar marina, heading out to anchor tonight and hoping to make it round the Cabo de Gata tomorrow, as there is some SW wind forecast for the weekend.  The trip along this far along the Costa del Sol hasn't really been photo worthy - fortunately the high rises are dwarved by spectacular mountains when viewed from sea.
 
We anchored off Duquesa ["party central", surely, in the holiday brochures], Fuengirola and then Herradura - the latter being the most pleasant.  Had a late birthday supper ashore here - the skipper having completely forgotten the date.  He didn't even wonder why I had decorated our draft log with flowers, balloons & rockets! Never mind. 
 
 Happily, had lots of texts and emails and a fabulous birthday banner photo from four of our grandchildren, including Clara who is now home and much better. 
 
 
 
 



Tuesday 23 July 2013

Hello from Herredura - between Malaga and Almeria

First a note for sailors about Ceuta.  Our pilot and several cruising forums described it as very good value for money and with the cheapest fuel near the Med.  No longer true!!  The marina, very cramped for Stravaigin,  which had extremely basic facilities and mooring lines some of which were nearly through,  was the same price as marinas we'd visited in Cadiz and Alcoutim. Luckily, before we fuelled, Mike asked a charter skipper how prices were in Gib - the answer was cheaper by a little on fuel and a LOT on the marinas!  We were subsequently asked by Vickie on Bella Luna whether we had fuelled in Ceuta, as they had been having fuel problems since they filled up there - nothing conclusive, but worth logging.
 

 Out with the old, on with the new!






Ceuta's wonderful market



However, it was interesting to be nearly in Morroco and we did have a cracking sail there! 

Saturday 13 July 2013

Cadiz to Ceuta

Before we left Cadiz, Mike and Simon had a most enjoyable day in and near Jerez with some hospitable friends of the latter [who, almost inevitably, turned out to know Bill and Shian Carlow, yachstmen of note and many thousands of miles, from Loch Striven, near Dunoon. Bill played the fiddle at our naming party]. Their family had converted a hacienda into a superb guest house with infinity pool, fabulous rooms, etc. and they came back groaning gently under the weight of a truly excellent lunch! I managed to squeeze in a much needed haircut and a new pair of sandals while they were away.....

 
We departed mid morning, making our way towards Cape Trafalgar
We were again almost surrounded by the Spanish Naval Fleet, but held our nerve and remembered our forbears.


After a good day with steady Westerlies, frequently giving us 8 knots on the clock, we decided to forego the dubious delights of Barbate Marina, anchoring instead just inside Tarifa Harbour. Yes, we know it is the windiest place on that coast and yes, there was a swell all night, not to mention much ferry movement, but Stravaigin was well tucked in out of harm's way and the distance suited us..... Not too restful, but a good point from which to cross the Straits.

Visibility was good in the morning and despite the pilot plotting a course in accord with regulations [see red lined route above....] for crossing the shipping lanes [that is to say, passing over them at right angles], the skipper and crew took a more pro-active approach of a good watch and a 45 degree angle which cut a good 9 miles off the distance to Ceuta. And indeed, their experience in CPA [closest point of approach - i.e., are we going to hit or miss that extremely large tanker?] held good, so the pilot stopped squeaking nervously and enjoyed the day.
 
 
 
Extraordinary skies - presaging the Levanter?  We don't understand the weather down here yet
 
 There wasn't a huge amount of shipping apart from frequent ferries (who completely ignore the rule of the road anyway) and the visibility remained perfect, so the most challenging part of the crossing was probably Stravaigin's first stern-to mooring in Ceuta Marina which is tight and had a firm cross-wind for Mike to deal with.
On the hill above Ceuta where we went for a Moroccan meal.  Sadly, the restaurant was adorned with heavy, ornate windows which obscured the view of the Straits we had gone up to enjoy!


Hercules, in Ceuta, after whom the marina was named..
 
Yet another fabulous market




|Ah, that is Gib and Spain 8 miles away.





Hello from Gib


We had a great sail down to Cadiz from the Guadiana

 
Still chilly enough at night for FWG, but some stunning skies



 
As previously mentioned, Cadiz was a most enjoyable city 

Not the sort of anchorage one imagines as picturesque, under a half constructed bridge in an industrial landscape, but actually very interesting - plus good holding. An ideal place to dine in a civilised manner!

 






 

 

 

There are lovely public gardens, big, open squares and the usual plethora of enormous Spanish monuments!

 


We cycled right out to the lighthouse we had been watching on our way down from the Guadiana - "Castillo de San Sebastian Fl(2) 10s38m25M Horn Mo 'N' 20s. Aluminium Tower on Castle" (Non-sailors - that means you can see it from 38 miles away, it's 25 metres high and flashes every 10 seconds!)
 
 


 

 

We took the train up to Seville - the temperature rising about 10 deg.C in the process!  Because of the dodgy knee and due to previous interesting experiences in other cities, we took one of the open topped tour buses to get a feel for the city - sadly, this was disappointing, as so much of the city has been pedestrianised and the remaining streets are so narrow the buses can't get down them.  So they are limited in where they can take you.
 
 However, we eventually found ourselves in a most attractive area - but only after having risked our health by having lunch in a restaurant chosen for its authentic look [tiled interior, no printed menu].  Why we didn't back out at the first [of VERY many] loud explosion of coughs, hawks & sneezes from the toothless proprietor, or when Simon found a fly on his Jamon, I don't know - we must have been very hungry & were certainly extremely hot & thirsty!  Again, rather like Cadiz, really hard to get any good photos.


 

I did like the look of some of the cool courtyards to private houses though.
 
And although we all checked ourselves for dire symptoms over the next 48 hours, returned to Cadiz unscathed.
 
As mentioned at the top of this post, we arrived in Gib on the 21st June, via Tarifa and Ceuta - a Spanish enclave on the Moroccan coast.  About 24 hours after we arrived, the wind turned sharply through 180 deg., at times a full blown Levanter, meaning any  progress towards the Balearics would have been slow, uncomfortable and expensive, so I changed plans and went back to UK on various commissions while Mike stayed in Queensway Quay marina, attending to any number of tasks.  It was especially sad as our friend Susie Barrett  arrived in Gib, anticipating a jolly sail to Ibiza, instead of which she caught some vile bug on the plane on the way out, leaving her miserable as well as unlikely to sail anywhere.  She is now back in Scotland and we very much hope to try again in September.
 
Gib has some advantages - a Morrison's where we have stocked up on Mango Chutney, Horseradish Sauce, Chilli Sauce, Naan breads [a former engine driver who taxied me back after my trip commented that the Spanish aren't really interested in trying anyone else's cuisine] smoked mackerel, fresh milk, Fox's Bran Biscuits, a good assortment of marmalades; Main Street where you can, if you can fight your way through the ex-pats waddling from an English Pub with all day breakfast to M&S or Mothercare, stock up on duty frees; La Linea the other side of the runway - in Spain -  where you can buy good fruit and veg at sensible prices   ~ and, of course, loads of history.  One thing they do NOT have is decent wifi.  I tried to update this blog in Scotland and was doing really well until there was a power cut for no apparent reason which wiped everything I had done, and have been trying hard since I got back, but Gib telecom has other ideas!  So I am going to post this now and add some more pics when we have a better connection.
 
We are going out to anchor tomorrow and hope to proceed Eastwards at the beginning of the week.