Mallorca!

We always believed the Spanish didn’t get up in the mornings because they went to bed so late.

Foolish.  The reason they don’t get up is that there isn’t any wind till nearly lunch time!

Entry from Log for 9^th August:

“0700:  Weigh & proceed UP  [Under Power].  NW1.  Dry, clear.

“1130:  Full sail” – for the remainder of the 50 mile crossing to Isla Dragonera off the Western end of Mallorca.  A slightly tricky anchorage with weed and rocks – and a “2m. rock in the middle of the anchorage” – a less than helpful entry in the Pilot, without any co-ordinates.  Certainly not on our electronic chart!  So once the skipper had chosen his spot, I hopped over the side in my fins & snorkel, had a look at the anchor and located the rock – waving to Mike on tip-fin to prove it was 2m under water.  I noticed a lot of small, harmless looking jelly fish, enjoyed a leisurely swim and came back on board.

Shortly afterwards, we were joined by Shenandoah.  What a picture of loveliness,  She was built in 1902   and has been extensively re-fitted.  She’s now on the market – hope she finds an owner who wants to sail her.

Not happy with the holding the next day, Mike dove over the side and was back again about half a minute later, shouting for vinegar.  He had a weal on his neck which looked as if he had been cut down from a lynching  - my Italian Waters Pilot [but not the Balearics one] revealed the culprit

…………..  Despite the vinegar compress it was extremely painful for 24 hours & didn’t fully go away for about a week.  They seem to go about in drifts, so watch out!  I did volunteer to go in later in a long-sleeved polo neck & pyjama bottoms to check our new position, but happily this offer was declined!

We stayed a second night –anchored out of sight of buildings – and then headed up to Palma via Cala Blanca [which is a bit like saying Black Rock on the West Coast] and Les Isletas which must be lovely off- season.

Thanks to word from Vickie of Bella Luna, we had a really good deal in the heart of Palma Harbour.  Where we were in the realms of the good, the bad and the ugly

– and felt pretty small!..........  La Llonja Marina is actually a charter base, tucked into the NE corner of the harbour, nearer to the city than any of the others.  Full at weekends, they sensibly offer their berths on weekdays for about half the price of anywhere else.  We enjoyed our stay – it’s a lovely city.    We failed [surprise] to find a place where we had had an excellent lunch about six years ago, but did locate a great little restaurant called Les Oliviers with a quirky, eclectic menu which included yellow gazpacho [“Delicious” – Michael Stewart] Cambodian Noodles and Organic Burger!   Can’t remember the address, but it was in the shadow of a big church…..

Our friends David & Jane arrived in one piece – well, two – kindly bringing with them the usual assortment of spares and requests from UK.  Spending a night on the way down, we sailed over to Cabrera [Goat Island – Rabbit Island is also part of the archipelago], a nature reserve about 12 miles South of  Mallorca. 

You have to book one of the limited buoys to stay there, but it was well worth it – a stunning natural harbour, once the haunt of pirates [which got the skipper’s imagination fired up] and now watched over by a military base on the island.  In an enterprising move, the Army Cantina is open to the public for drinks & snacks.  Sadly, you’re only allowed a one night stay in August – it was lovely to be away from resorts & jet-skis.

The staircase at the castle - just wide enough if you aren't horizontally challenged....

Our friends also kindly brought with them some excellent sailing weather – we used the engine far less than recently.  Mike spent some time attempting to fine tune the self-steering gear – still not quite right, but we’re getting there.  This will be great when we are sailing short-handed, as the Autopilot consumes a lot of power so can only be used when motoring,

After heading back to the bigger island, we found ourselves in Porto Cristo, a Cala with deep cliffs on either side – again, a wonderful natural haven.  After D & J had gone for a recce, they suggested we visit the Cuevas del Drach – an enormous series of caves with an underground lake at their heart.  Despite being herded in there with holiday crowds, we were all bowled over by them – the size and variety of stalactites & stalagmites were extraordinary – I certainly had to remind myself more than once that we weren’t in some CGI generated film set.  They have made an auditorium by the lake and we were treated to a mini classical concert by a trio in a rowing boat, with two extra softly lit vessels for effect, moving back & forth amongst the arches and shadows. Not easy to photograph, but if you find yourself in Mallorca, do go.  Hold your nerve as you queue up for your tickets & go past the gift shop and the coaches – to all four of us it was definitely worth it. [and choose a quieter month if you can!].

Finally, with David & Jane on hand, we flew the cruising chute  [smaller than a spinnaker, but similar material] for the first time on our way past Baia Alcudia to Baia Pollensa.  Most gratifying [and pretty] – 6 – 7 knots in very light airs. 

Let’s just say that recovering it needs some work, especially if you are short handed. 

Thanks are due to Jane for lying face down [who is no doubt grateful we were all too busy to capture her on the camera...] on the bit we managed to get in first to stop it flying off again while I was furiously stuffing some more into the sack!  David had spent more than his fair share of time at the helm during the week, so it was only just that he was there, having a relatively quiet time, rather than up on the foredeck, battling with the rest of us!  I have already done some research into a snuffer.

We do need to find a willing photographer on another yacht to take pictures of Stravaigin under sail.

We rented bikes for D&J’s last day, and enjoyed a pedal round to Pollensa via Alcudia before repairing to El Cocodrillo in Bonaire for a delicious final supper.

At least as far as Ibiza!

Sorry about that last post.   Google told me it had uploaded and in fact it was only in draft.  Try again!

After we left Torrevieja - this is the sort of company we keep nowadays.   Circa 100ft. and that isn't just a boom basket - it's a walkway! Nice to see a very active sailing school in most harbours -  and passed Benidorm at a safe distance [good grief] I was very excited to note on the chart

 that we were now 00 deg. EAST!  Mike kindly pointed out that we had looked at the possibility of stopping at Marina Greenwich, and there may have been a hint there.....

We had a couple of nights anchored off El Rinconet which was far more attractive [thanks to Vickie for the suggestion] & then departed NNE for Ibiza.  At least 15 miles out, this fellow landed with an exhausted clatter on our reefing lines at the end of the boom

 beautifully camouflaged in black and khaki. We weren't sure if he was trying to get to Ibiza or Spain, but he rested there peacefully enough until the wind got up and Mike tried to move him so we could hoist the main.  Sadly, his attempts to remove him to safety failed, and he flew off.  We hope he made it!

 Our first choice of anchorage in Ibiza was jam packed, so we headed to this group of islets on the SW tip.

Like most of the places we visited, it was busy during the day with all manner of craft, but particularly Isla Conjera - a good, horse-shoe shaped bay, was quiet at night as all the motor boats & super yachts headed for home

But before one of the biggest gin palaces left, we were treated to the most extraordinary sight. .  A powerful jet ski tows some sort of hose which delivers two jets of water to the person's boots.  If they manage to stay upright - and we saw one girl going face first into the drink many times - this is the effect.  They didn't  go very far like this - height seemed to be the object.  What will they think of next?  [I have to say, most children would be itching to have a go, wouldn't they?....]

There was a NE blow forecast, so we headed round the island to Cala St. Vincent, tucked under Cabo Grossa.  Not bad little shops and an excellent "Bar on the Beach" - extremely hippie in tone [proprietor, Dutch former lawyer, I think] and really good food.  A shopping trip was planned, the Beeb launched with MJS at the oars, favouring the new seat at the stern. Pretty good at rowing in a straight line, very inexperienced in even mild surf, I spotted a small boy exactly where we were planning to land and immediately pulled the wrong oar, putting us sideways on to the waves.  Skipper managed to step nimbly over the side and hold onto the boat, up to his thighs in water, but MJS rolled smartly off the [slightly tippy, as mentioned] seat and into the water, head first.  Completely unhurt except pride and a very uncomfortable sandy squelch up to the beach shower [what an excellent invention] to attempt to remove the sand from everything.  Three cheers for the rucksack given to us by Tania and Ruaridh - everything inside - wallet, cash, etc. survived well.  But the sand continued to annoy us for several days!

Costa Bianca to NE Mallorca

From Torrevieja

Very few photos taken along the Costa del Sol – no point in depressing everyone!! 

So instead, here are a few of what we have been about when not sailing:

Mike installing the SSB antenna – swinging off the insulated backstay in La Linea Harbour  - and part of a wedding procession of dozens of yachts, dressed overall.  All guests in trunks or bikins except bride and groom, traditionally attired in long white dress & suit respectively!  

A neat little seat  made for the Beeb by the skipper – much more comfortable, though it has a slight tendency to tip – to be used with care after a good meal ashore!

The wind vane steering – installation now practically finished.    We requested a manual from the new owner of Fleming Self Steering, as ours, handed out by the previous man, was more in the way of a draft with a few sketches.  Delighted to report that Phil George, an Australian, began his manual with a tribute to Blondie Hasler.

The Breeze Bandit – what a great and simple bit of kit.  Unlike traditional wind scoops, this has four separate channels for the breeze, so even it you aren’t head into wind – which you have to be for other scoops to work – it picks up whatever is coming.  It's an American product which a kind friend ordered and sent over as they are a ridiculous price in Europe.   Now  loved and appreciated [the Breeze Bandit – though Bryan is as well] as are our mosquito screens.  Although well out in La Linea, I resembled a chicken pox patient for a few days!

Highly recommended, and now I’ve seen how it’s done, could be reproduced for other hatches.

Our renewables are just about keeping pace with the demands of fridge and freezer – plus top ups from the days – too many recently – of motoring.

Other jobs done more frequently in the heat – inlet strainers.  Each time they are checked a new form of marine life seems to have worked its way in – yesterday, it was a sort of transparent gel – rather like sea squirt spat – nearly coating all the surfaces, plus greeny-yellow scum.  Absolutely vital to keep these clean, for the running of the engine, fridge, freezer and generator.

Our deck mounted shower is really coming into its own now that we’re swimming most days [complete with one of those flannels that fit over your hand to clean the water line]  

The side screen by the cockpit awning – which we move as the day progresses– is an absolute boon – just a simple shaped sheet with lanyards, but it makes a huge difference.

As we head towards the top of the high season, we will be going into marinas even less frequently [quoted €78 for one night which, the manager proudly added, includes electricity and water…..  well, it won’t because we won’t be going in there!] so the big Avon will be out more for shopping trips ashore, etc..   I’ve made slings to lift it out of the water at night – for security and to keep the weed down.  We’ll tow it on day hops in the Balearics.

A long day without much sailing took us from Herradura to Almerimar marina, past huge areas of white plastic where, says our pilot, “most of Northern Europe’s winter vegetables are grown”.  The plastic is mentioned as a genuine marine hazard, if a sheet breaks free.

Almerimar proved much more attractive than anticipated for a purpose- built marina village.  Efficient, welcoming and very decent facilities.   We were directed to a mooring which turned out to be right besides JA NA – a German boat who had been at Tagus Yacht Center.  They had just returned from the Balearics and were full of hints, tips and enthusiasm.

Stravaigin and all who sail in her – and their towels & sheets – were thoroughly washed. 

We stayed a couple of nights and had intended just to go round to anchor in the next bay, as we didn’t leave till about 1600, but  a good breeze appeared, so we decided to keep going.  We rounded the Cabo de Gata at 2330 and had a steady [well, OK, quite slow on occasion…] sail through the night until the wind finally died around 0730 – so three or so hours of motoring before it obligingly got up again, and had a brisker sail to Cabo Tinoso, 8 miles West of  Cartagena.  Quite a quartering sea had built up from the SE  by then, requiring attentive helming .  We turned into Baia Saltirona, which got us out of the worst of it.   

Two other yachts at anchor, one of whom shone a torch at us – were we about to tangle in a fishing net?  No, it was PLANE SONG, Bruce & Becky flashing us a welcome!   We agreed that Saltirona was like Ardnamurchan without the heather – dramatic skyline all round, with a row of forts [OK, not quite like Argyll] leading to the lighthouse.  That’s one photo I should have taken

Apparently Drake raided Cartagena and took a whole bunch of their cannons back to the West Indies with him……….. 

It was rather a rolly anchorage, but we stayed a couple of nights, setting off on the 29^th to see how far we would get.  Happily the NE winds didn’t materialise and we had good fun,  round the Cabo de Palos, past the Mar Menor – a 12 x 6 mile inland sea which you can go into , but there were solid high-rises the whole way along the Eastern edge of it, and didn't appeal.  Anchored in Torrevieja around 2130. 

  Whilst bowling along at 6 knots rounding Cabo de Palos,  the skipper decided to have a look at the RNSA burgee – and was on the phone to the club 5 minutes later.  A new one has already arrived with the Mayos who are joining us in the Balearics – just as well, feel we could be struck off for this one!

That's not the cabin sole which is making it look grey....................

 We spent a blissful night in the inner harbour, sleeping like logs with no swell, but were chased out in the morning – they’ve decided to ban anchoring there – no seamanship reasons we can see – more a commercial decision with two marinas competing for custom??

Luckily, in a NE wind, there’s still good shelter outside the harbour, although not without swell.

We are giving ourselves one night in the Marina das Salinas here (the manager rejoices in the name of  Rodney Chinchilla).  Once again, friendly, polite, welcoming staff.  A pretty narrow berth, but we are getting more practised at bows to mooring and the marinieros have so far been ashore to help with lines etc.

Dad would turn in his grave to learn I am typing with our little washing machine going, but it’s great!  Very efficient, and saves an awful lot of lugging large bags of wet sheets & towels back from launderettes, and as most marinas include water & power, cheaper anyway. And drying things is NOT an issue!

Meantime, Mike is happily on deck busily deploying the hose and scrubbing brush.  We’ve discovered there’s a Lidl here, so can top up on chocolate & mueseli, and there’s a produce market and supermarket close at hand.  So the bike has been landed!  The produce markets are always good, but I do think wistfully of you Tesco-on-line customers as I wobble back with panniers full of the heavy stuff.  I spotted an enviable little bike trailer being ridden happily along a pontoon the other day – fear space forbids.   However,  it does give one a feeling of having hunted and gathered.

We’ve got 60 – 80 miles more on this coast, depending on where we decide to cross, either to Ibiza or Formentera.   Not much variety in the wind for a week – NE in the morning, SE in the afternoon, seldom more than force 4.   There seem to be better anchoring opportunities than there have been along this stretch, but we are looking forward to the heavily indented coastlines of the Balearics.

From Almerimar - near Almeria

There is some Westerly wind forecast for this weekend - hooray!  Too much motoring.....

Very glad to be away from Gib, though it was historically interesting.  We encountered our first surly Spaniards there - amongst the 9000 who work on the Rock.  It's interesting that it's so resented in Spain

 

It's fun crossing over to La Linea by bike - much quicker than by car, but you have to go into the line at the border with all the motor bikes, and it's a bit un-nerving having Harley Davidsons revving up behind you as you negotiate the cones!

 You go straight over the runway [when the lights are green....]. 
That's the Rock from La Linea.

- after all, both Ceuta and Gib have been hung on to for strategic and commerical reasons with little geographical justification so, pot... kettle?

Before we left, we went out for supper, on the recommendation of a neighbouring boat, to The Owners' Club - on the grounds of good food at sensible prices.  Our waiter had been to the Basil Fawlty charm school, slamming our plates down, trying to make us take a table we didn't want, speaking very quickly in strongly accented Spanish when he obviously understood us a little - it was so bad it was funny, which was a relief to two very nice young Spaniards on the next table, who apologised profusely for him and translated for us.  And the food was good!

Goodbye!

 

We're now in Almerimar marina, heading out to anchor tonight and hoping to make it round the Cabo de Gata tomorrow, as there is some SW wind forecast for the weekend.  The trip along this far along the Costa del Sol hasn't really been photo worthy - fortunately the high rises are dwarved by spectacular mountains when viewed from sea.

 

We anchored off Duquesa ["party central", surely, in the holiday brochures], Fuengirola and then Herradura - the latter being the most pleasant.  Had a late birthday supper ashore here - the skipper having completely forgotten the date.  He didn't even wonder why I had decorated our draft log with flowers, balloons & rockets! Never mind. 

 

 Happily, had lots of texts and emails and a fabulous birthday banner photo from four of our grandchildren, including Clara who is now home and much better. 

 

 

 

 

Hello from Herredura - between Malaga and Almeria

First a note for sailors about Ceuta.  Our pilot and several cruising forums described it as very good value for money and with the cheapest fuel near the Med.  No longer true!!  The marina, very cramped for Stravaigin,  which had extremely basic facilities and mooring lines some of which were nearly through,  was the same price as marinas we'd visited in Cadiz and Alcoutim. Luckily, before we fuelled, Mike asked a charter skipper how prices were in Gib - the answer was cheaper by a little on fuel and a LOT on the marinas!  We were subsequently asked by Vickie on Bella Luna whether we had fuelled in Ceuta, as they had been having fuel problems since they filled up there - nothing conclusive, but worth logging.

 

 Out with the old, on with the new!

Ceuta's wonderful market

However, it was interesting to be nearly in Morroco and we did have a cracking sail there!